Sorry...we´ve had no Internet access for a few days, so some of this is old news...
A few days ago, as we were entering Villatuerna, I said to Wendell, "I wish I could soak my feet in a cold stream. When we arrived at the albergue, and the hostess showed us the facility, she said that after we showered, we might want to soak our feet with salt and vinegar. The icy water helped to relieve my tired and swollen feet. It was an answer to prayer! She and her husband were so attentive to our needs - they had clearly thought of many pleasant touches, including hammocks. I asked her if she had walked the Camino herself. She said, "Yes, but I didn´t finish. I met my husband and stayed here." Today, as we began walking, I said that I'd like to acquire a walking stick for the upcoming climbs. Soon, along the side of the path, were some freshly cut branches, just the right thickness. Thank you, God, for these many gifts!
Wendell and I both have some mannerisms and ways of being that incarnate my father for each other. He is very much present with us on this walk. This has helped me to better understand the incarnation of Jesus - that if we are each able to be just a bit Christ-like, to bear just a few of his characteristics for each other, then he is indeed alive amongst us.
Tuesday - day 6
We have walked 140km in 6 days and tonight are staying in Sirueña. The hostel here is very simple - not what we have become accustomed to. Most of them have some sort of courtyard or outdoor seating area, but this one has only a dark living room. Ah, well, it is home for tonight. I have been pleasantly surprised that most of the beds have been very comfortable.
Typically, our days begin at 6am, and we are on the road by 7. That is about when the sun comes up. Some of the hostels serve a simple breakfast, adn others just have a coffee machine. In that case, we eat whatever bread for fruit we may have stashed in our packs, then stop for something more when the opportunity presents itself. Lunch is usually some combination of bread, cheese, olives, nuts, fruit, and cookies obtained from a small market. The towns are generally 5-10km apart, and often have shady parks or benches and water fountains for peregrinos. Some of the townspeople wish us "¡Buen Camino!", but others ignore us or are clearly bothered by our presence. Sometimes between 2-5pm we find an albergue to spend the night. When we enter, I say, "Hola. ¿Tienen dos camas?" So far, the've all said, "Si." After we take off our boots and stow our walking sticks, we pay our 7-10€ each and have our pilgrim credentials stamped, then we shower and wash out our clothes from the day, and hang them out to dry. Sometimes they dry overnight, but sometimes we have to pin them to our packs. I have now walked through many towns with my underwear dangling behind, and it doesn't even bother me anymore. Usually we have some time to sit with a cold drink and soak our feet, read or write, or even nap. In the evening we find a restaurant with a prix fix pilgrim menu for approximately 10€ or get a sandwich at a cafe. By the time we've finished eating and stroll around town a bit, we're usually ready for bed...as I am now. Good night!
Wed - day 7
We have travelled 169km (112mi) this week. We're nearly 1/4 of the way to Compostela. My feet are very sore, but the rest of me is holding up well. My bites have healed and blisters are manageable. Yesterday, I was able to get my boots on, after walking several days in broken down running shoes that I packed at the last minute. They were useful when my feet were swollen, but not protective against sharp rocks on the trail. I think I'll be able to manage with just my boots now, as I've learned to better care for my feet.
We met our first American today, as we arrived at the albergue. She's from Pittsburgh and is traveling with a group of Europeans. We met back up with a German family, too, whom we hadn't seen in a couple of days. For a while we had seen them everywhere, then not at all. The son and daughter gave this trip to their father for his 70th birthday. He took a tumble in Pamploma, and has been walking with his arm in a sling ever since.
Thursday - day 8
We decided to make today a short one (11km) so we can get soem rest in preparation for three upcoming hills. We stocked up at the supermercado, as it appears there is nothing between Villafranca de Montes de Oca and San Juan de Ortega, on the other side of the hills. It was raining this morning, so we slept in a bit. Tonight, we're in Villafranca at a restored 13th century pilgrim hospital. It's quite beautiful and comfortable, and the people are friendly.
I threw away my running shoes this morning, after canibalizing the insoles and laces. You never know!
