Hola from the End of the Earth

We are in Finisterra, the worlds end (or at least they thought so at one time). But rest assured, we walked all the way around the peninsula, to the light house, and did not fall off. Could it be that the world is round!

It seems that, even though we arrived in Santiago, we just cant stop walking...and especially walking up hills, and stairs. I sure hope this obsession ends soon.

We will soon catch the bus back to Santiago, then the bus to the Santiago airport, then a plane to Madrid. Then after a night in the airport, well catch a big plane to Dublin, and on to Boston. Were both looking forward to being home, and ready to re-enter our real lives.

Hard to see, but this marker reads: "0.00KM" THE END

I threw D'Ignacio's stick in the water at the end of the earth.

See you soon!

We've Arrived!!

Hola from Santiago!

Proof that we arrived at the Cathedral in Santiago.

We attended the Pilgrim Mass, and indeed the great thurible was swinging!

St. James himself.

Many languages are spoken on The Way. Signs like this are plentiful.

We walked the last 18K this morning, and stopped for lunch as we entered the city. As has been our pattern with cities, we got lost trying to find the Seminary, but we are now safe and sound with beds secured for tonight and tomorrow night. We found the Pilgrim Office, and received our Compostelas. Tomorrow, we'll attend Mass at the Cathedral, and go through the usual rituals of hugging Santiago, praying at his tomb (where I´ll be sure to remember D'Ignacio), and making our way through other meaningful parts of the Cathedral. We're hoping on Monday to take a bus to Finisterra (the end of the earth).

I don´t yet know what my emotions are about having finished this 700K, 31-day pilgrimage. I'll let you know more when they come to me. I'm sure it will be weird to get up in the morning and not have a destination of 25K.

I´m extremely grateful (and know Wendell is too) to Eva and Ellen for supporting us in this adventure, and for putting up with our absence for so long. It has been a very rich time. Love and blessings to both of you, and we´ll (respectively) see you soon.

It's Only a Road!...or is it?

Today, I was surprised to find myself grieving that this experience will soon come to an end, and that the Camino that I was starting to experience through solitary reflection and shared time with my uncle, was so suddenly ended/changed when we entered Sarria this morning. It was shocking to encounter bus-loads of fresh, clean, rested pilgrims embarking upon their first day's walk, all waiting in line to be photographed taking their first pilgrim steps (as if they were boarding a cruise ship). These pilgrims are joining the road now in order to walk the last 100K to earn their Compostela. I´ve been meditating on the Parable of the Laborers in the Vineyard, and trying to give thanks for God´s generosity.

Since we´ve been crossing mountains the past few days, we´ve had no Internet access, so we jumped at the first opportunity to let our loved ones know that we´re still breathing. However, when we entered the coffee shop, it was packed with new pilgrims grabbing up shells, walking sticks, and other souvenirs. It seemed like forever before I could order two cafe con leches and change for the computer. But before the man could make our coffee, a woman demanded that she be served first because her group was waiting for her. I definitely needed an attitude adjustment after that interaction. The only thing I could think to do was pick up trash. I had done a bit of this before, but today I needed to pick up LOTS of trash. It helps me to get out of myself - my judgement and anger - as well as to have a purpose. It´s not enough to just finish - the Camino or life itself - but I must have a purpose, to accomplish something, to make the world better in the process. And then I received gifts: First, a big black Lab appeared on the road and wanted to play ball with fallen apples. Only, there were all "his." If one of us tried to pick one up, he would snatch it nearly out of our hands. By the time he stopped walking with us, he had claimed a rock for his own. He reminded me a lot of our beloved dog Winter, and lifted my spirits. Then, not far along the road, we crossed through a small herd of cattle, where the farmer was standing by the side of the road with his dog. There were many pilgrims passing at this point, so I don´t know why he picked me out, but he asked if we were going to Santiago. "Si," I answered. He handed me his walking stick (a straight green branch that had been whittled smooth on one end) and took my found stick in exchange. Then he asked me to pray to Saint James for him. I promised to do so, and at our first stop I carved his name in the stick so I won´t forget. Please join me in praying for D'Ignacio. I can´t help but feel that my new walkingstick is showered with blessings, as it was a gift from this humble man.

I think part of my grief, too, is that I spent so much time focused on my feet that I may have missed some opportunity for deeper learning and reflection. But I´m trying to take extra time for that in the remaining days. I wrote this overlooking the river, and watching the day´s remaining pilgrims struggle into Portomarín.

We´ve met several people along the way who say that they ¨live on the Camino¨- a retired man from California who says he owns only what´s on his back and lives on his Social Security checks; a woman from Germany who started walking from Berlin in January and now says her address is the orange backpack. She apparently cleans albergues in exchange for nightly domicile for herself and her newly-acquired dog. Then there was another woman who passed us going the opposite direction. She said when she got to Santiago, she wanted to swim home to America, but after she´d been there for three months, she decided to turn around and walk back. I wonder if these cases are just a way to romanticize homelessness. Is there really a difference between living on the Camino and living on Boston Common? I´ve resisted the notion that the Camino is somehow magical or mystical, though miracles have been reported at several sites along the route. Instead, I´ve been working with the concept of journey (which could take place anywhere) in terms of keeping my attention in the present, rather than trying to get ¨there;¨in being present to the people I´m journing with - not only my uncle, but all the folks we´ve met along the way; in what I´m carrying and what I´m leaving behind, etc. But maybe there´s more to it...

I was reflecting further on my experience of having blisters and needing new shoes, but not being able to find a shoe store on the right day in the right town. The day we arrived in Carrion and I was finally going to have new shoes because I knew there was a store there, but it was a holiday and the store was closed, if I had been alone, I would likely have just stayed sitting at that coffee shop, and been unable to move. I recognize this paralysis in some members of the common cathedral community, and have always wondered about it. Now I think I have a little better insight. I just felt so defeated (pardon the pun) that I couldn´t move. It took my uncle to say, "OK, let´s evaluate our options..." I just didn´t seem able to think through that myself, especially when we found that the option we´d chosen (the bus) was not available. So I would have just sat there, perhaps till dark or till closing time. Who knows. What was I waiting for? For something to magically change, perhaps. Maybe that´s why people sit on benches on Boston Common, because they just can´t do anything else, and they need someone to help them evaluate the options, or to magically make things different for them.

Good night!

Finally...other things on my mind

The feet are getting better every day! Gracias a Dios! We walked 20K yesterday and 25 today, so we´re actually on schedule to reach the town just before Santiago on the 25th of September, then on the morning of the 26th to walk the last 4K, wait in line at the Pilgrim´s Office to receive our Compostelas, then attend the Pilgrim Mass at Noon. We´ll have the rest of that day in Santiago, then on the 27th take the train to Madrid, and fly out on the 28th. Hopefully, all will go as planned.

All this focus on my feet got me thinking about the common cathedral congregation, and all the time they spend on their feet, as well as how important it is that they care for them, and have help caring for them. I don´t know what that will mean, but it´s hightened my awareness. I've also been looking for insights from my experience in albergues and on the walk to understand better the experience of the common cathedral congregation in shelters, on the streets, and moving about the city of Boston or beyond. I'm aware of how difficult it is to arrive at a new albergue each day and have to learn a slightly different routine from the one I stayed in the night before. It would be easier to stay in one place, as it would become familiar and comfortable. It takes inner resources to get up each day and leave that comfort (not to mention the warmth of a bed), and move on in the cold. It´s difficult to live by someone else's rules, and some people choose not to. One albergue told us that we couldn´t get up before 7am, but that we had to be gone by 8am. There was no one there to enforce that, so many people left at 5:30 or 6, as they were accostomed to doing. I haven´t had any problem with the quite and lights out times, as I'm usually in bed much earlier, but others would rather stay out in the bars. We're all adults, and want to make our own rules, but in order to get along as a group, and meet the most peoples' needs, we have to have some guidelines, and they aren't always agreeable to everyone. Then there are all the practicalities of sharing sleeping space (most of the rooms are bunk beds, and some rooms are larger than others) and bathrooms. I am quite thankful for my earplugs, as the snoring can get really loud, especially in the co-ed dorms. For the most part people are respectful, but it´s hard to share when you're tired and hot and want to shower NOW, not when someone else is through. Also, some of the albergues are cleaner than others. We haven't yet run into any fleas or bedbugs, but we've heard stories, and seen evidence of bites. All of these are things I don't have to contend with in my comfortable home. The difference, though, is that I can get on to Camino blogs and rate the albergues that I´ve stayed at, to let future pilgrims know which ones were outstanding and which ones to avoid. People staying in shelters don´t have that liberty. On my walk today, I tried to imagine what it might be like if there was a secret shopper for homeless shelters. The person would show up unanounced, just as any other consumer would, and stay the night (hopefully on a night when they wouldn´t be taking a bed from someone who really needed it), then write about their experience or share it with the director of the shelter - how were they treated, what was the facility like, how was the food, etc. These are the kind of thoughts I have when I´m walking.

I also imagined a Wellness Group that I might run at Ecclesia - just a support forum for people who are trying to make positive changes for their wellbeing - a group to help them be accountable to themselves.

Last night, we stayed at a fabulous new albergue in Villares de Orbigo. The couple who run it (Pablo & ???) have walked the Camino 3 times, and want to do it again soon. So, they understand the pilgrim experience, as well as our needs. The facility was clean and neet, they were pleasant and available when we needed things, and they other people staying last night were also quite fun. We cooked dinner together (actually, I stayed off my feet, but helped dry dishes afterward) - rice, pasta, salad, chicken and olives, and enjoyed each others' company. It´s the best one we've experienced so far.

The next two days, we'll be going over a big mountain (the 2nd largest of the whole Camino, or at least the part that we're doing). So, I think that tomorrow night we´ll be on the top, then then next night at the bottom. Apparently, there´s not much in the way of services or towns during this time, so I may not be able to write tomorrow. Blessings to all!

...however

I have not figured out why it is that I´m having to focus so much attention on my feet, and endure this pain. I'm sure there's a deeper lesson here, but I think I'll need further reflection...maybe even after I finish walking...to know what it is.

So, here's the shoe saga: I bought a pair of hiking sandals in Carrion. The salesman was a trip! He spoke Spanish very slowly and loudly, and was careful not to use any big words, so that I would understand...and it worked. Anyway, I nearly danced out of the store. For the first time in many days, I was not limping or favoring anything! I was able to walk normally, and nearly pain-free. I walked across town to the post office to mail my hiking boots to Santiago...and all was well. We got the bus to Sahagún, then walked 14K that afternoon...and all was well. We got up the next morning and started walking. At some point I started having pain on the bottoms of my feet. I took off the sandals and saw that both of them had cracks in the footbed, under the balls of my feet - AND, I was beginning to form blisters there! I changed socks, but there was not much else I could do. Much of our walk was over large rocks, and both of our feet were killing us by the end of the day.

We finished walking by 3pm, and decided that we´d catch a bus to Leon that afternoon so that we´d have the next morning to explore...and for me to buy new shoes...again. Our guide book said that the buses run every half hour, so it sounded pretty easy. We got to the bus station and asked the bartender (yes, there are bars everywhere here) about the bus to Leon. She said that it was 1.4€ and that we pay on the bus. So, we had a seat outside and watched TV. At some point we realized we´d been there more than 30 minutes, so I went back inside to inquire about when the bus might arrive. The same woman took me to a schedule on the wall and pointed to a time (17:30) on the Saturday schedule, which was crossed out. She said that it was OK and that the bus would be there at 5:30. That meant we had some time to wait, but that was OK. There was a cycling race on TV, so we got into that. At 5:25 we walked around the building to where the buses arrived and soon the bus marked Leon pulled in. We rushed to the door, but it was closed. A woman exited through the back door, and was trying to get the luggage compartment open but had trouble. The driver grudgingly opened the front door to help the woman, and grumbled at us, "No ????." I didn´t understand, so asked,"¿No plazas?" "¡No!", she replied, then got in the bus and drove away. Another woman was standing there, and was clearly indignant for us, though her ride soon picked her up and she was gone too. It became apparent that the 5:30 bus service to Leon had been cancelled, and no one told the bartender. That must be why it was crossed out on the schedule. So, we walked/hobbled to the albergue, just a few blocks away, and had a good rest.

We had checked the Sunday schedule before leaving the station, and saw that the first bus would be at 3pm, so we walked to Leon and arrived before then. It wasn´t a pleasant walk - lots of industry and traffic, but the city itself was very nice. After checking into the Benedictine Monastery albergue, we had a late lunch at a cafe in the square, then hobbled (me) the the Cathedral, then over to one of the palaces where there was a sightseeing bus (that looked like a train). It was good to see the sights without walking any more. The Benedictine sisters had a blessing of the Peregrinos at 9:30, which we attended. It was lovely. The big excitement that evening was that someone came into the courtyard of the albergue and tried to walk out with one of the bicycles. The woman who owned the bicycle just happened to be sitting there and yelled, then one of the volunteers took chase. I was laying in my bunk, but heard the yelling and banging on the door. The guy got away, but the bike was saved and the police were called. Then, of course, everyone who was there had to retell the story - to the police, to the Mother Superior, to each other, to new pilgrims and volunteers who arrived. It was great fun to sit and watch it all. Unfortunately, that was not the only theft. The night before, in a municipal albergue, two women had large amounts of money stolen from their packs. People, keep your valuables on your person! Not all peregrinos are trustworthy...and that´s sad.

So, today we got up and found an early coffee shop (bar) to hang out in till the sporting goods store opened at 9:45 (not 10, but 9:45). I got a new pair of trecking shoes and Wendell got a new pack, as his was ripping at the seams. Then we tried again to get a bus, this time out of Leon, but the next one wasn´t until 4pm. So, again we began walking. We did about 22K, but it took forever. It was hot, and while the new shoes help tremendously, my feet are still sore. So, we arrived at this albergue at 7:40, had a quick shower, laundry and dinner, and here I am writing to you. Now, I have to go soak my feet. Tomorrow´s another day - On the Road Again...

New Shoes! - I hope

After we left Hontanas on Tuesday, I realized that I need to get new shoes. Boots would take too long to break in, but hiking sandals will be more forgiving. The boots that I bought from REI simply don't fit me right. I have tried everything I can to make them work, but they don't. So, I'll be returning them when I get home. I plan to mail them to myself in Santiago, so I don't have to carry them the whole way. Right now, it's nearly 9am, so I just have to wait an hour or so for the sporting goods store to open. If that doesn't work, then Sahagún (pop 170,000) will surely have many shoe stores - and we already have our bus tickets to get there today.

The nice lady at the albergue in Hontanas said that the next town that would have a shoe store was about 10K down the road, so on Tuesday I limped along to get there. When we arrived, it was apparent that there was no shoe store there. Someone said that the next town, another 10K, would have one. So, I limped along some more. Guess what? No shoe store there either. Still, another town would have one, a little further down the road. So on Wednesday, we walked another 25K and still no shoe store, but we saw a sign for CaminoSport in Carrion, and the sandals I want are on their poster, so we knew that would work. Yesterday, we walked the last 11K to Carrion, and arrived just before 10am when all the stores should open...but they didn't.

I went into a cafe to inquire, and returned to report, "It's a holiday - their patronal feast day - the Virgen de Piedad - all the stores are closed." I couldn't believe it that we came all this way, and there actually is a store here, but it's closed today!

So, we deliberated over coffee our choices. We could continue walking (not an option for me anymore); we could take a bus to Sahagún (50K and a large city, so sure to have a shoe store); or we could stay in Carrion for the night. We decided to take the bus. While we were waiting, we noticed that the man at the next table had purchased a ticket at the cafe, so Wendell went inside to inquire. He returned and flatly stated, "The bus is full." We waited for the once daily bus to arrive to be sure that it was indeed full. I watched as one pilgrim nearly fell at the driver's feet, begging him to let her sit on the step. He refused. I told Wendell that I was certainly not capable of begging any better then her, so we'd better just spend the night here. Apparently, this is where God wanted us to be. Since it was the patronal feast day, there was a procession through the town, in which we took part. There was also a Mass in the evening, which we attended. After the Mass, the Priest invited pilgrims to come forward for a blessing. It was a Spirit-filled time, as most of the people at the Mass were pilgrims, and we all shared where we are from. We prayed together, then came forward individually for a laying-on of hands and blessing by the Priest. I feel full, now. This is why I could not buy shoes in those other towns, and why it was a holiday, and why the bus was full. The Camino always gives you what you need!

Laying over in Hontanos to heal my feet

My blisters were burning so much this morning, that I had to call a timeout. We are spending an extra day here in Hontanos = a pleasant little town, so I am able to catch up on my posts:

Friday = Day 9
Wendell and I spent some time walking separately, during which time I remembered most of the words to "There Was an Old Lady Who Swallowed a Fly." This grew out of a conversation in which we pondered if there is any useful purpose for flies, and what was God thinking when She created them. It must have been an off day for Creation. I do know why they are called "bugs."

The people we have met have been great - fun, considerate, generous, and eager to meet others. My only complaint is the littering along the Camino, especially of TP. Please, if you are planning to walk, BURY IT or TAKE IT WITH YOU. The people are primarily from Europe and the UK, plus a few Australians and Asians. Still just the one other American. During our lunch break, we reuninted with Mariaelani, a Greek woman from Australia. We had not seen her for a few days, so it was nice to run across her again. Sometimes, I am not sure what language is going to come out of my mouth. At the Austrian hostel, I was sitting next to a German woman as I put my feet into the fountain and said, "Wundebar." We shared dinner tonight with three Dutch men, 1 German, a Spanish man and his 13 year-old son. The woman who runs the albergue speaks Spanish and French. Fortunately, one of the Dutch men speaks Frenmch, so he spoke the menu to him in French, and he translated to English, German and Dutch. It was delightful to watch him discuss with his friends the proper translations, or to question his understanding. If I did not understand his English, then I would question the woman in Spanish or try to hear what she said to the two Spaniards, then give my order in Spanish. It was a circus of language - very fun. As we were leaving dinner last night, I said "Au Vois" to the French couple next to us. The waitress spoke about six languages, and said my Spanish was "Muy Bien," but I think she was just being nice. It is great to be able to converse a bit with locals - mostly "travel Spanish" - but also to exchange a few words with people on the trail.

One of the Dutch men started walking in Holland three months ago. He had a few blisters when he first started, but now his feet are in great shape - "soft as a baby," he says. He uses cream to keep the skin supple. This is the exact opposite of my strategy, which was to toughen my feet before I left. But he is right - many of my blisters are in places where I had callouses. I want to spend some time reflecting upon the strategy of meeting a hard, rocky road with soft feet instead of calloused ones.

I feel very grateful today, after walking over three 1100 meter peaks. Thank you, God, for legs that work and for soft ground to walk on; for pine trees and the shade they give; for the beauty of wildflowers; for wind and the ability to harvest its energy; and for people who run albergues for peregrinos like us.

Saturday - Day 10
This was a long day - over 30km. We did not know it would take so long just to get through Burgos. The cathedral was magnificent, and we saw a bit of Flamenco dancing in the street, to celebrate on of the many weddings. It was a good place to stock up on food and supplies, as most stores are closed on Sundays. I spent so much oat the Farmacia - on remedies for insect bites and blisters, that they threw in a bunch of free samples of skin cream - again the Camino gave me what I needed. So tonight, I gave myself a foot massage, and am focusing on softening and appreciating my feet. Thanks, feet, for carrying me so far - 227km (141 mi)!

Sunday - Day 11
We are 1/3 of the way to Santiago, but today was a trudge. My feet really hurt - new blisters! Wendell has a sore ankle. So between the two of us, we were very slow, and stopped after 20K. The albergue here in Hontanos is very nice - clean and new. At least the terrain this week is not too challening, so hopefully my feet will heal and my attitude will improve. I am bored and not having fun right now. We agreed that a requirement was to have fun each day (thanks for that advice, Br Curtis!). And ironically, on this spiritual pilgrimage, I have not been to church in two weeks. Our presence in towns never seems to correspond with the timing of the church services. But I am craving Eucharist (even dreamed about it), as well as communal and ritual worship. Even though I am constantly chatting with God along the way, it is not the same as gathering for worship. Perhaps this has something to do with my attitude.

Monday - Day 12
I got up today and prepared to leave, but once I got my feet bandaged and my boots on, my feet were screaming so loud, I had to listen to them. So, we are staying put for the next 24 hours. I might walk around town in my sandals, just to alleviate boredom, but otherwise it is rest for me. Peace to all!

"The Camino Gives You What You Need¨

Sorry...we´ve had no Internet access for a few days, so some of this is old news...

A few days ago, as we were entering Villatuerna, I said to Wendell, "I wish I could soak my feet in a cold stream. When we arrived at the albergue, and the hostess showed us the facility, she said that after we showered, we might want to soak our feet with salt and vinegar. The icy water helped to relieve my tired and swollen feet. It was an answer to prayer! She and her husband were so attentive to our needs - they had clearly thought of many pleasant touches, including hammocks. I asked her if she had walked the Camino herself. She said, "Yes, but I didn´t finish. I met my husband and stayed here." Today, as we began walking, I said that I'd like to acquire a walking stick for the upcoming climbs. Soon, along the side of the path, were some freshly cut branches, just the right thickness. Thank you, God, for these many gifts!

Wendell and I both have some mannerisms and ways of being that incarnate my father for each other. He is very much present with us on this walk. This has helped me to better understand the incarnation of Jesus - that if we are each able to be just a bit Christ-like, to bear just a few of his characteristics for each other, then he is indeed alive amongst us.

Tuesday - day 6
We have walked 140km in 6 days and tonight are staying in Sirueña. The hostel here is very simple - not what we have become accustomed to. Most of them have some sort of courtyard or outdoor seating area, but this one has only a dark living room. Ah, well, it is home for tonight. I have been pleasantly surprised that most of the beds have been very comfortable.

Typically, our days begin at 6am, and we are on the road by 7. That is about when the sun comes up. Some of the hostels serve a simple breakfast, adn others just have a coffee machine. In that case, we eat whatever bread for fruit we may have stashed in our packs, then stop for something more when the opportunity presents itself. Lunch is usually some combination of bread, cheese, olives, nuts, fruit, and cookies obtained from a small market. The towns are generally 5-10km apart, and often have shady parks or benches and water fountains for peregrinos. Some of the townspeople wish us "¡Buen Camino!", but others ignore us or are clearly bothered by our presence. Sometimes between 2-5pm we find an albergue to spend the night. When we enter, I say, "Hola. ¿Tienen dos camas?" So far, the've all said, "Si." After we take off our boots and stow our walking sticks, we pay our 7-10€ each and have our pilgrim credentials stamped, then we shower and wash out our clothes from the day, and hang them out to dry. Sometimes they dry overnight, but sometimes we have to pin them to our packs. I have now walked through many towns with my underwear dangling behind, and it doesn't even bother me anymore. Usually we have some time to sit with a cold drink and soak our feet, read or write, or even nap. In the evening we find a restaurant with a prix fix pilgrim menu for approximately 10€ or get a sandwich at a cafe. By the time we've finished eating and stroll around town a bit, we're usually ready for bed...as I am now. Good night!

Wed - day 7
We have travelled 169km (112mi) this week. We're nearly 1/4 of the way to Compostela. My feet are very sore, but the rest of me is holding up well. My bites have healed and blisters are manageable. Yesterday, I was able to get my boots on, after walking several days in broken down running shoes that I packed at the last minute. They were useful when my feet were swollen, but not protective against sharp rocks on the trail. I think I'll be able to manage with just my boots now, as I've learned to better care for my feet.

We met our first American today, as we arrived at the albergue. She's from Pittsburgh and is traveling with a group of Europeans. We met back up with a German family, too, whom we hadn't seen in a couple of days. For a while we had seen them everywhere, then not at all. The son and daughter gave this trip to their father for his 70th birthday. He took a tumble in Pamploma, and has been walking with his arm in a sling ever since.

Thursday - day 8
We decided to make today a short one (11km) so we can get soem rest in preparation for three upcoming hills. We stocked up at the supermercado, as it appears there is nothing between Villafranca de Montes de Oca and San Juan de Ortega, on the other side of the hills. It was raining this morning, so we slept in a bit. Tonight, we're in Villafranca at a restored 13th century pilgrim hospital. It's quite beautiful and comfortable, and the people are friendly.

I threw away my running shoes this morning, after canibalizing the insoles and laces. You never know!